Sauna rituals are a big part of many cultures, but in Latvia, the pirts takes on special significance. Jane Kitchen discovers the painful pleasure of the Baltic bathing ritual
By Jane Kitchen | Published in Spa Business 2016 issue 3
Aigars, the sauna maste uses birch branches to massage and stimulate the skin as well as to circulate the hot air around the cabin
I’m lying naked, in a sauna by a tranquil lake in the Latvian countryside, head-to-head with my cousin, El, while a man wearing only a pointy green hat and a clinging skirt shakes water from birch branches over us. If there’s ever a moment when you realise just how much of this industry is based on blind trust in total strangers, this is it.
"This isn’t what I had in mind when you said we’d be visiting a spa," says El. By the end of the three-hour session, she changes her tune – even claiming it’s awakened a new spiritual sense in her. But for now, we’re sweating away in a 65°C pirts – the Latvian word for sauna – and Aigars, our sauna master, is whisking the wet leaves over my body, first tapping, then whipping the branches against my skin.
"Some people like you to hit them hard," explains Aigars, "but I like to use steam and massage techniques to get the effect." It’s much more pleasant than it sounds, all this hitting business – it’s gentle enough that it can be done over sensitive areas – although it’s still not exactly nice in the moment.
The pirts is so hot it’s hard to breathe, and the air feels like it might contain actual flames. The hats we wear have a hole in the top and are made to protect the head from the intense heat. The only relief is from the dripping branches, or when Aigars lets in a blast of crisp air – which he does in response to my skin turning too pink. He’s trained to read the body, he says, to know how people are feeling.
I’m feeling unbearably hot as I rest on a pile of damp birch branches, and then whoosh – Aigars dumps ice-cold water over both me and El. I shriek, but after the initial shock, it’s actually blissful relief. For a few moments, that is, before Aigars gets back to whipping the branches through the air, making it even hotter than before.
"Had enough?" he asks after some time. "Yes," we both agree. We sit up slowly to avoid dizziness, don comfy robes and head outside for some fresh Baltic air.
Welcome break It’s incredibly peaceful outside and my ears buzz – from the quiet or the heat, I’m not sure which. A deck looks out over a still lake flanked by trees and the only sound is of an occasional goose passing overhead.
We’re about an hour outside Latvia’s capital city, Riga, deep in the grounds of Rumene Manor, a lovingly restored, 10-bedroom neo-Gothic hotel. The pirts is in a traditional, lakeside pine cabin, first built in 1935 and reconstructed in 2014.
We rest, slowly cooling on chairs until Aigars calls us back into the cabin’s lounge with a blazing fire. He’s made us yarrow and cowslip tea, served in traditional thick, black earthy mugs crafted locally.
He’s also laid out delightful bits of food: local cheeses, truffled salamis, fresh figs, raspberries, pine nuts, dried tomatoes. Suddenly I’m famished. "It’s important to eat while you do the pirts," he says. "You should feel energetic when you’re done and you need to keep your nutrition levels up."
Aigars warns us not to spend too much time out of the sauna – just a break to let the surface of the skin cool and allow the heat to travel further into the body.
Grounding experience The next two sessions, also split by a short break, are similar to the first but progress in intensity. At one point, my head cocooned under a pile of cool, wet birch leaves, I have an amazing sense of my body as a separate entity as Aigars presses hot leaves into the small of my back. The sound of my breath against the leaves and the sizzling water on the sauna rocks lulls me into a heightened sense of relaxation.
At the end, Aigars wraps me in a linen towel, walks me to the lake and instructs me to wade into the water. Mud oozes between my toes and the icy water pricks my skin. I hesitate."Àtrāk! ātrāk!" he says, urgently. "Faster! faster!" and I obey. "Now under the water!" he says, and I duck below the surface before I can think. When I resurface, gasping with shock, Aigars guides me to a whirlpool on the deck.
The water in the tub is cold, but feels balmy after the icy lake. "Now I hold you on your back and you relax," Aigars commands. Water rushes into my ears and as I float, I can hear my blood pulse. My breath begins to slow and I feel like I’m spinning.
At the end of the experience, I open my eyes to grey clouds above and focus on the silhouette of a pine tree to ground myself. I’m not spinning, it turns out. The world is there, and quiet. The only sound is of my own breath and the cool water lapping gently at my skin. I’m invigorated – buzzing with a new energy – and fully present in the moment.
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Sauna rituals are a big part of many cultures, but in Latvia, the pirts takes on special significance. Jane Kitchen discovers the painful pleasure of the Baltic bathing ritual
By Jane Kitchen | Published in Spa Business 2016 issue 3
Aigars, the sauna maste uses birch branches to massage and stimulate the skin as well as to circulate the hot air around the cabin
I’m lying naked, in a sauna by a tranquil lake in the Latvian countryside, head-to-head with my cousin, El, while a man wearing only a pointy green hat and a clinging skirt shakes water from birch branches over us. If there’s ever a moment when you realise just how much of this industry is based on blind trust in total strangers, this is it.
"This isn’t what I had in mind when you said we’d be visiting a spa," says El. By the end of the three-hour session, she changes her tune – even claiming it’s awakened a new spiritual sense in her. But for now, we’re sweating away in a 65°C pirts – the Latvian word for sauna – and Aigars, our sauna master, is whisking the wet leaves over my body, first tapping, then whipping the branches against my skin.
"Some people like you to hit them hard," explains Aigars, "but I like to use steam and massage techniques to get the effect." It’s much more pleasant than it sounds, all this hitting business – it’s gentle enough that it can be done over sensitive areas – although it’s still not exactly nice in the moment.
The pirts is so hot it’s hard to breathe, and the air feels like it might contain actual flames. The hats we wear have a hole in the top and are made to protect the head from the intense heat. The only relief is from the dripping branches, or when Aigars lets in a blast of crisp air – which he does in response to my skin turning too pink. He’s trained to read the body, he says, to know how people are feeling.
I’m feeling unbearably hot as I rest on a pile of damp birch branches, and then whoosh – Aigars dumps ice-cold water over both me and El. I shriek, but after the initial shock, it’s actually blissful relief. For a few moments, that is, before Aigars gets back to whipping the branches through the air, making it even hotter than before.
"Had enough?" he asks after some time. "Yes," we both agree. We sit up slowly to avoid dizziness, don comfy robes and head outside for some fresh Baltic air.
Welcome break It’s incredibly peaceful outside and my ears buzz – from the quiet or the heat, I’m not sure which. A deck looks out over a still lake flanked by trees and the only sound is of an occasional goose passing overhead.
We’re about an hour outside Latvia’s capital city, Riga, deep in the grounds of Rumene Manor, a lovingly restored, 10-bedroom neo-Gothic hotel. The pirts is in a traditional, lakeside pine cabin, first built in 1935 and reconstructed in 2014.
We rest, slowly cooling on chairs until Aigars calls us back into the cabin’s lounge with a blazing fire. He’s made us yarrow and cowslip tea, served in traditional thick, black earthy mugs crafted locally.
He’s also laid out delightful bits of food: local cheeses, truffled salamis, fresh figs, raspberries, pine nuts, dried tomatoes. Suddenly I’m famished. "It’s important to eat while you do the pirts," he says. "You should feel energetic when you’re done and you need to keep your nutrition levels up."
Aigars warns us not to spend too much time out of the sauna – just a break to let the surface of the skin cool and allow the heat to travel further into the body.
Grounding experience The next two sessions, also split by a short break, are similar to the first but progress in intensity. At one point, my head cocooned under a pile of cool, wet birch leaves, I have an amazing sense of my body as a separate entity as Aigars presses hot leaves into the small of my back. The sound of my breath against the leaves and the sizzling water on the sauna rocks lulls me into a heightened sense of relaxation.
At the end, Aigars wraps me in a linen towel, walks me to the lake and instructs me to wade into the water. Mud oozes between my toes and the icy water pricks my skin. I hesitate."Àtrāk! ātrāk!" he says, urgently. "Faster! faster!" and I obey. "Now under the water!" he says, and I duck below the surface before I can think. When I resurface, gasping with shock, Aigars guides me to a whirlpool on the deck.
The water in the tub is cold, but feels balmy after the icy lake. "Now I hold you on your back and you relax," Aigars commands. Water rushes into my ears and as I float, I can hear my blood pulse. My breath begins to slow and I feel like I’m spinning.
At the end of the experience, I open my eyes to grey clouds above and focus on the silhouette of a pine tree to ground myself. I’m not spinning, it turns out. The world is there, and quiet. The only sound is of my own breath and the cool water lapping gently at my skin. I’m invigorated – buzzing with a new energy – and fully present in the moment.
Read more from this issue of Spa Business magazine
Top team: Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat
The people behind this world-renowned lifestyle retreat share their business insights with Julie Cramer. Plus a focus on co-investor Hugh Jackman
Ask an expert: Visiting practitioners
Done well, visiting practitioner programmes can boost profits by up to 40 per cent. But how can spas get the offer right? Kate Parker investigates
Promotional feature: Esadore - creating a splash
The MD of Esadore International, Theodora Kioussis, explains how the company’s creative, manufacturing and operational skill sets can bring an international managing director
of UAE-based esadore International to life in a short space of time
Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai in Hoi An, Vietnam, has put together a Global Wellness Day
(GWD) agenda with activations rooted in nature and shaped by four pillars of Joy – in
alignment with the day’s theme #JoyMagenta.
The Global Wellness Summit (GWS) will celebrate its 20th anniversary at the 2026 event in
Phuket, Thailand, later this year with the theme: The Science, Art and Soul of Wellness.
Auko, an all-inclusive development, is opening in Phong Nha in Vietnam in Q3 2026, with a
series of 30 tented eco-lodges and wellness hospitality operations by Lumina Wellbeing.
Therme Manchester’s 28-acre development, which will include interconnected glass pavilions
that measure 65,000sq m, will be the largest bathing and wellbeing attraction in the world once
complete, according to prof David Russell, CEO of Therme UK.
Naples Beach Club, a Four Seasons Resort, has opened a 2,800sq m spa called The Sanctuary,
with the design and concept inspired by the Native American people that populated Florida’s
Southwest coast – the Calusa.
Swire Hotels’ luxury hospitality brand Upper House has revealed it will roll out its two-day
House of Healing retreats at its three hotels in Hong Kong, Chengdu and Shanghai.
LVMH-owned beauty house Guerlain will launch up to five spas with partners a year as part of
its plan to expand globally, according to the brand’s international spa and wellness director,
Diane Davody.
A new global study by Kevin Kelly and Peter Yesawich, called WELLSurvey 2.0, has revealed
more than half of consumers in the UK, US and Germany would not choose numerous high-
profile wellness resort brands for a future trip.
Luxury hospitality and wellness pioneer Jeremy McCarthy has launched Leisure Alchemy, a
digital platform that will provide professionals with strategic guidance on how to build
transformational leisure experiences that drive profit.
In a world where imbalance often accumulates quietly, Wildsmith unveils its newest
wellbeing innovation: Silent Loads, an approach designed to meet the needs of modern spa
guests with precision and depth. [more...]
The Spa Life UK Convention returns from 21–23 June 2026 at Whittlebury Park Hotel, Spa &
Golf Resort, bringing together spa managers, directors and owners for two days of focused
education, meaningful connection and commercial insight. [more...]
+ More featured suppliers
COMPANY PROFILES
UK Spa Association Our mission is to raise awareness of our industry within schools, colleges, society and crucially at [more...]
