Biologique Recherche has a long commitment to customising its wide range of skincare products to the needs of the individual, including the use of DNA testing for diagnostics, to guide the prescription of treatments.
Now the company is adding the study of Chronobiology to its raft of prescription sciences.
Chronobiology – the scientific field that studies biorhythms – reveals the way the body responds to environmental variations that occur over time.
Three major cycles impact skin physiology. The first two – the nycthemeral and circadian cycles – are highly connected and last 24 hours on average. The third, the menstrual cycle, lasts around 28 days.
In order to establish the perfect times of day to use specific skin products to ensure optimum efficacy, the R&D team at Biologique Recherche, reviewed the science relating to the function of the skin to find out how it responds to these biological rhythms.
They found, for example, that the skin protects itself against environmental stressors during the day and repairs itself at night.
Thanks to this insight, the researchers have been able to determine the optimum time to apply products to get the best results.
“Chronobiology is very complex science and requires real expertise when determining a skincare routine, as it will depend on each person’s individual profile and each personalised skincare routine,” says Benjamin Choquenet PhD, R&D project manager at Biologique Recherche. “We asked ourselves, how can we improve our diagnoses? How can we improve the efficacy of our products?”
The Lab’s three-step methodology begins with an evaluation of the skin by expert therapists. This is followed by the taking of a series of measurements using five probes connected to a computer to measure moisture content, trans-epidermal water loss, skin elasticity, melanin and sebum content.
The combination of the results generates a personalised, dermo-cosmetic file, which enables therapists to make a customised selection of Biologique Recherche products and treatments, specifically tailored for each client.
This approach also gives clients the tools to be involved actively in their own treatment and because the right products are selected for each ‘diagnosis’, they get results.
Pierre-Louis Delapalme, co-président of Biologique Recherche, says: “Every time the guest comes to us, we assess their skin and identify how it’s changed. Your skin will have changed every time you come back to us, depending on the levels of stress you’re experiencing, what you eat, your hormonal cycle – there are so many reasons why your skin can change.
“Biologique Recherche spas keep a personalised history for guests, monitoring changes over time, so recommendations can be dynamically adjusted for each of them, to create a long-term treatment programme.
“Many people think the cosmetic industry is an ingredient battle – what’s new, what’s best etc,” he says. “We work differently, because our main source of inspiration is understanding the skin’s function.”
"Our main source of inspiration is understanding the skin’s functioning" – Pierre-Louis Delapalme, co-président
• Products that act on the skin barrier, such as the lipid-replenishing Crème Dermo-RL, should be applied in the morning to protect the skin, or in cases of dermatitis, in the evening, to strengthen the skin and limit itching.
• Anti-redness products, such as the new Crème Verte Espoir A.R., are more effective when applied around noon and during the evening – to avoid the bloodflow spikes that occur during the afternoon and late evening.
• Products that act on sensitivity, such as Serum Biosensible, should be applied during the evening – the time of day when the skin is the most reactive.
• Products that act on the deeper layers of the skin should also be applied during the evening, when cutaneous penetration is maximal.
• An anti-aging product which acts on most skin cells, La Grande Crème is best applied in the evening, when cell proliferation is most active.
• When cleansing sensitive skin, scientists recommend this is done in the morning, to limit irritation and at night to remove the pollution of the day, with a sensitive product such as Eau Micellaire Biososensible.
• They recommend slimming products, such as Crème Anti-C, are applied either after meals, to limit fat storage in the body, or before exercise, to stimulate the breakdown of body fat.
• Exfoliating products such as Lotion P50 are recommended for use in the morning on sensitive skin, as it’s better protected at this time of day. On less sensitive skin, it can be applied in the morning and evening.
• At night, AHA and BHA acids in exfoliating products act on the surface of the skin and penetrate deeply into the epidermis, stimulating the production and renewal of skin cells.
Scientists at Biologique Recherche have established the best time to apply a wide range of skincare products for optimum results
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Biologique Recherche has a long commitment to customising its wide range of skincare products to the needs of the individual, including the use of DNA testing for diagnostics, to guide the prescription of treatments.
Now the company is adding the study of Chronobiology to its raft of prescription sciences.
Chronobiology – the scientific field that studies biorhythms – reveals the way the body responds to environmental variations that occur over time.
Three major cycles impact skin physiology. The first two – the nycthemeral and circadian cycles – are highly connected and last 24 hours on average. The third, the menstrual cycle, lasts around 28 days.
In order to establish the perfect times of day to use specific skin products to ensure optimum efficacy, the R&D team at Biologique Recherche, reviewed the science relating to the function of the skin to find out how it responds to these biological rhythms.
They found, for example, that the skin protects itself against environmental stressors during the day and repairs itself at night.
Thanks to this insight, the researchers have been able to determine the optimum time to apply products to get the best results.
“Chronobiology is very complex science and requires real expertise when determining a skincare routine, as it will depend on each person’s individual profile and each personalised skincare routine,” says Benjamin Choquenet PhD, R&D project manager at Biologique Recherche. “We asked ourselves, how can we improve our diagnoses? How can we improve the efficacy of our products?”
The Lab’s three-step methodology begins with an evaluation of the skin by expert therapists. This is followed by the taking of a series of measurements using five probes connected to a computer to measure moisture content, trans-epidermal water loss, skin elasticity, melanin and sebum content.
The combination of the results generates a personalised, dermo-cosmetic file, which enables therapists to make a customised selection of Biologique Recherche products and treatments, specifically tailored for each client.
This approach also gives clients the tools to be involved actively in their own treatment and because the right products are selected for each ‘diagnosis’, they get results.
Pierre-Louis Delapalme, co-président of Biologique Recherche, says: “Every time the guest comes to us, we assess their skin and identify how it’s changed. Your skin will have changed every time you come back to us, depending on the levels of stress you’re experiencing, what you eat, your hormonal cycle – there are so many reasons why your skin can change.
“Biologique Recherche spas keep a personalised history for guests, monitoring changes over time, so recommendations can be dynamically adjusted for each of them, to create a long-term treatment programme.
“Many people think the cosmetic industry is an ingredient battle – what’s new, what’s best etc,” he says. “We work differently, because our main source of inspiration is understanding the skin’s function.”
"Our main source of inspiration is understanding the skin’s functioning" – Pierre-Louis Delapalme, co-président
• Products that act on the skin barrier, such as the lipid-replenishing Crème Dermo-RL, should be applied in the morning to protect the skin, or in cases of dermatitis, in the evening, to strengthen the skin and limit itching.
• Anti-redness products, such as the new Crème Verte Espoir A.R., are more effective when applied around noon and during the evening – to avoid the bloodflow spikes that occur during the afternoon and late evening.
• Products that act on sensitivity, such as Serum Biosensible, should be applied during the evening – the time of day when the skin is the most reactive.
• Products that act on the deeper layers of the skin should also be applied during the evening, when cutaneous penetration is maximal.
• An anti-aging product which acts on most skin cells, La Grande Crème is best applied in the evening, when cell proliferation is most active.
• When cleansing sensitive skin, scientists recommend this is done in the morning, to limit irritation and at night to remove the pollution of the day, with a sensitive product such as Eau Micellaire Biososensible.
• They recommend slimming products, such as Crème Anti-C, are applied either after meals, to limit fat storage in the body, or before exercise, to stimulate the breakdown of body fat.
• Exfoliating products such as Lotion P50 are recommended for use in the morning on sensitive skin, as it’s better protected at this time of day. On less sensitive skin, it can be applied in the morning and evening.
• At night, AHA and BHA acids in exfoliating products act on the surface of the skin and penetrate deeply into the epidermis, stimulating the production and renewal of skin cells.
Scientists at Biologique Recherche have established the best time to apply a wide range of skincare products for optimum results
Read more from this issue of Spa Business magazine
View contents of Spa Business 2020 issue 4
Editor's letter: Nurturing mental health
It’s time for spas re-evaluate their mental wellness approach to help governments and society to tackle the escalating mental health crisis says Katie Barnes
Spa people: Dr Narinthorn Surasinthon
RAKxa Jai, a cutting-edge medi-wellness spa, has opened in partnership with Bumrungrad International Hospital and Minor Hotels in Bangkok. Spa Business talks to its COO
Spa people: Isabelle Duchesneau
The executive director of Québec's Le Monastère Augustines explains why its priority of serving caretakers is more relevant today than ever
Spa people: Michael Banissy
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Interview: Krip Rojanastien
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Ask an expert: Corridors of power
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Promotion: Artofcryo: Cold Calling
Artofcryo.com aims to offer the best whole-body cryotherapy chambers as well as a complete, reliable and effective solution for operators and results for guests
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Interview: Mark Hennebry
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Promotion: Lemi: Creating the dream team
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Interview: Luisa Anderson
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Promotion: Biologique Recherche
Skincare specialist, Biologique Recherche, is using its knowledge of chronobiology to create new approaches to skincare which yield powerful results
Event review: Global Wellness Summit 2020
This year’s Global Wellness Summit saw two US surgeon generals, leading spa stakeholders and wellness professionals look towards the role they have to play following the global pandemic. Spa Business magazine gives its highlights
Research: Matter of minds
A new study is the first to define and put a value on the global mental wellness industry – estimating it to be worth US$121bn. But what does this mean for spas?
Sponsored briefing: Starpool: Cargo-tecture
During lockdown, Riccardo Turri, CEO of Starpool, was inspired to create a whole new category of product, based on recycled containers. The result is the new i.con spa brand, which fuses luxury, wellness, recycling and design
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Contrast therapy, based on the alternation of hot and cold rituals, has become one of the
most valued practices in the fields of wellness and recovery. [more...]
+ More featured suppliers
COMPANY PROFILES
Phytomer Founded in Brittany, France, in 1972 by Jean Gédouin, Phytomer is a family-owned company now in its [more...]
